Nordkalottruta Kautokeino -> Kikpisjarvi

[Inaki]

Hey there,

it's not completely clear to me this message is going to the english forum (a bit confusing of an interface) so if it ends up in a norwegian speaking forum, sorry in advance.

I'm hiking the Nordkalottruta trail this next august/september and I'm having a difficult time finding info in a language I can understand. I don't speak any scandinavian language, neither german or dutch. I hope you can help me with some relevant hints.

I've already got all the relevant maps and some info (in english) from the web and the trail is depicted in all the swedish and finnish maps and one of the norwegian maps (Turkart Indre Troms) so in those sections at least I know where to go... but I'm quite lost regarding this northernmost section from Kautokeino to Kilpisjarvi. There is a trail depicted in the norwegian topo maps that aproximately follows the (rather brief) trail descriptions I've got but not always and there are sections that are completely missing like from Saraelv south towards Finland... so I'm a bit lost regarding this section.

I write here in hopes any of you has hiked this section and can give me some advise. How is the trail in general? Is is easy to follow? Is it well marked? Will I be able to hike it with just the topo maps? Any potential or sure difficulties worth mentioning?

Actually, anything helps, whatever little bit of info will be useful.

Thanks in advance, take care

Inaki (from spain)

[Innaktiv bruker]

Hi,

I’m currently preparing for the ”Nordkalottruta” myself. This means, I probably got the information you’re asking for, only it’s in English. Also, since I’m preparing, I don’t have any real experience “on the ground,” only what I’ve derived from good advice here on the forum and elsewhere on the Internet.

My experience is that you’ll be able to hike it with just the topo maps in the Norwegian parts of the trail. Also, after examine the maps and my trail description; your observation that the trail depicted on the maps follows the trail descriptions is correct. However, the section between Saraelv and Somashytta (Towards Finland) is not depicted on the map, but it’s a marked with Norwegian Ts in the terrain (according to The Norwegian Turistforeningen – DNT).

Below is my translation of this section, and I’ll try to translate the rest of the part from Kautokeino to Kilpisjarvi if it will be helpful and I can find time before I travel North to start my own hike.

Somashytta – Saraelv: 31 km, aprox 8 hours.

Marked trail, but not depicted on the map. The marked trail then leaves the road and continues uphill North of Carajohka, then passes the edge of a deep canyon. The trail then continues towards West, through the brushes/forest North of Stuoraskaidi, and then towards South West to Meahccevarri. The trail then goes around Skaidecohkka on the West side, towards South to lake marked 759, over Ciknajohka and East of Cik’navarri. Next, towards South, and holds the same elevation past stoura Gulpo-oaivi. Then, towards South East and meets the ATV/four wheel track North East of Coalbmejavrrit, and follows the track downhill to Raphesjohka, which you must cross without a bridge. Finally, the trail crosses over some wet area and some boulder areas towards the cabin at the North West end of Somajavri.

---

My apologies for the typos and quick and dirty translation. Hopefully this is to some help, and I’ll try to give a better translation of this leg and the rest of the section from Kautokeino to Kilpisjarvi if I can find time for it and you think it will be helpful.

My plan is to start from Sulitjelma next week and hike towards North. I plan on spending about one month on the trail, so maybe I’ll meet you if I get that far North.

Anywho, good luck on you hike!

[Inaki]

hey, thanks so much for the answer. It's incredibly helpful. The problem is all the info I've been able to find in english is like just plain facts (like "you go up, then you go down, then across a meadow and eventually you get to this hut here...") which is useful info but I miss some first hand (even if it's subjective) info on levels of difficulty, trail conditions, trail markings, potential difficulties, weather patterns... I'm experienced as a long distance hiker and I trust my skills and I'm assuming if this is an established route it shouldn't be anything I can't handle... but other than that assumption, I don't really know what am I getting into! I've never hiked in the arctic, I don't really know the terrain, the trail conditions... so any info you could give me is really, really welcome, even if it doesn't come from first hand experience. I was asking mainly about this northernmost section for the reasons I mentioned but actually the whole trail is kind of unknown to me. I guess what I want to hear is a "nah, you'll be fine..." kind of sentence

About this northernmost section, and apart from that missing bit south of Saraelv, I've noticed the trail depicted on the map does *not* always follow the (brief) text description I've got from somewhere on the Internet (I don't know the validity of this one anyway)... like one goes on this side of a hill and the other on the opposite, or one gets to this lake and the other doesn't... I guess it'll be fine as long as the trail itself is clearly marked on the ground to solve the discrepancies but I don't know if that is the case.

One thing I wonder which affects trip planning is the average distance for a reasonably long hiking day on this trail... all the info I've got access to in this regard seems extremely conservative (like 20 kms. or less per day) and I wonder if that's because the terrain is difficult or you need some route-finding... or simply because whoever mentioned that was being conservative or liked to take it easy. Any hint in this regard is very welcome.

I'll be leaving on august, 10th and hopefully starting the hike from Kautokeino on the 13th. Be sure to say hello if you cross my path!

Again, I welcome any bit of info you could give me but I know how busy things get when you're so close to departure time so take it easy, your trip preparations are foremost. That said, I welcome those translations. I'll swallow it all

Thanks so much for the help, I appreciate it

Regards,

Inaki

[Innaktiv bruker]

”nah, you’ll be fine…”

When I look through my own description, I see that they tend to be a bit vague for the part in Sweden. The decriptions from DNT (turistforeningen) is “dry, hard facts” while the Swedish is more of the “you-stroll-through-a-beautiful-meadow-on-a-sunny-day…” kind.

It’s been some busy days lately (the usually just before a long hike things: to the dentist to fix a filling that fell out, a broken down “trusty” old truck, the weather is perfect fishing trip, oops, maybe I need some food up there… kind of stuff ), so I haven’t gotten around to write some decent, useful information in English – yet.

I just posted the information I have gathered on my blog/online hiking diary (the way a lone-wanderer remembers and revisit his journeys when he can’t relive them over a beer with his buddies). I’ll do my best to provide a quick and dirty translation before I leave – I got a lap top, a gallon of coffee and I write my words in the sunshine…

Anywho, I can give you something general about the terrain and the trail:

1. In general

It’s difficult to give a precise level of difficulty or describe the weather conditions for the whole trial. In general, Nordkalottruta can be a demanding trail that requires that you are used to hike in the mountains. Parts of the trail can lack markings, which makes it necessary to know how to use map and compass. Also, in some places you might not find a clear trail to follow, and hence, need to rely fully on your orientation skills.

Nordkalottruta crosses many rivers and streams, many of which has no bridge or other means to cross than by foot. Therefore, you might want to carry a pair of light shoes and a “walking stick” for this purpose, and be prepared to be wet. Many of the rivers a fed by glaciers, therefore, it might be easiest to cross them in the morning before the day heats up.

Nordkalottruta rambles through artic landscape and the weather might be unstable and change quickly. Even during summer you might experience snow and sleet. Be prepared to go through “four season” in one day!

2. Terrain. As mentioned in my previous post, I haven’t first hand experience with the northernmost part (or Sweden for that matter), however, I have lived and hiked in Troms. Also, from various conversations and pictures, etc. I have formed an (hopefully correct) image of most of the terrain.

The northernmost part consists of relatively easy terrain. Compared to the more mountainous regions there is no serious elevations. Where the trail follows the Reisa valley, you encounter some forest. Else, this part is more open with low trees, etc.

Through Troms there are more mountains. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful areas to hike! Even though there are more mountains with the consequence of more up and down in a day, the trail is not to challenging.

After Troms you re-enters Sweden. To the west you have the Narvik Mountains, which is a challenge for a hiker who caries his home on his back. Judging by the maps, the trail avoids these mountains and follows are easier to wander terrain.

Later, when the trail re-enters Norway you might find the mountains more challenging. Be prepared for some steep hills and boulder rocks. Especially when the trail approaches Sulitjelma, the terrain is more “wild” with steep hills. For your part, you will be going downhill there, while I have to start my hike by gaining 1000meters in a few hours…

3. Trail marking.

The markings of the trail vary between the different countries. In Norway, the trail is normally marked with a red T painted on a rock, or a pile of rocks – in forest areas the trail is marked with red paint on trees. In Finland, the markings are ½ meter high sticks standing from the ground. In Sweden, the trail is marked with “piles” of rocks for summer marked trails, and with high poles with a cross on for year round trials (should be clear on your map). NB! This is based on online information and there might be places where this is not correct, or parts of the trail that Is not marked!!.

4. cabins etc. There are around 50 cabins along the trail (which explains the length of hiking each day). In Norway, most of the cabins are locked with a DNT-key. This key can be borrowed for a small fee (100kr), but I’m not sure where to get it – check http://www.turistforeningen.no in Sweden, most of the cabins are unlocked. Some of the Swedish cabins have a host and in some you can buy some food (don’t know the selection). In Finland the cabins are unlocked, and I believe you need to make a reservation. Also, some of the cabins in Norway are private (which usually need a reservation – like those from Kautokeino towards finland) and there are a few “Statskog koier” which are unlocked. There might be stretches where you need to sleep in a tent.

5. Hiking distance each day.

As mentioned, hiking distance each day is between cabins. If you use a tent (which is necessary to cary), it depends on how much time you want to spend hiking each day. In general I use 3km/hour for mountain parts and up to 4km/hour when it’s more flat and open.

The hiking distance/time given in the trail descriptions do not include time for rest, but is actual time hiking. After doing some math, I see that 3 km/hour for he Norwegian mountain parts and 3.3 km/hour is used for the “easier” parts are used. You probably know how far you go in one hour, and after some days it should be easy to judge time and distance for the next day.

Hopefully some of this was useful, and I’ll get on the translation of the trail descriptions - no guaranties...

I’ll be leaving on Monday 9th and starting from Sulitjelma. Unfortunately, I’ve probably ended my hike when you start (got to get home and sort out my stuff since I’m moving in the middle of august).

So, I wish you a safe adventure, and please write some words to tell us you experiences.

You'll be fine

btw, my blog/hiking journey: http://vandringsmannen.blogspot.com (in Norwegian until I get my translation done and posted)

[Inaki]

That was a great summary of those many things I needed to know. Huge thanks go to you for your effort in writing all that.

All the best for your trip, take care out there

inaki

[Kristin]

Hello, as I write this Im sitting in Narvik ; had to come down from Pauro in Nordland to buy new shoes.

I walked from Kautokeino to Bidgevagge * slept in a tent about 5 km from Nedrefosshytta. Went up to the mountain from Bilto and followed the powercable to GULASJAVRI, a big regulated water right next to Halti the highest mountain in Finland. From there I went down to Kaafjord and haiked to Skibotn because of the snow and a crazy bear who was in the area. From Skibotn I walked on the asfalt, and through HELLIGSKOGEN and then up in the mountain again. Came to Golda touristhut. From there you can go to Paltsastugorna, Rostahytta, Dertahytta, Didivalshytta, osv.

But you can contakt the Utsifamily who lives next to GULASJAVRI they are samipeople and very well known in the area. Say hello to Gunnlaug from me. It is quite easy to get to the 3countryborder. From there you can take the boat to Kilpisjavri and shop some food. The boatdrivers name is Kalle. Say hello from me yo him, maybee he will give you a bed for the night. He invited me to stay, a very nice man. Good lusk, I have to go!

Check my blogg www.langtur.blogspot.com / have a nice trip!!!!