Stetind, Nordland

[Fredrik Smith]

Er det mulig å komme opp på Stetind alene uten tau?

Er det lett klyving eller klatring?

Noen som vet om en fører på nett?

[morten]

Se:

https://www.fjellforum.no/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=183

https://www.fjellforum.no/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=1441

https://www.fjellforum.no/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=216

Se også www.stetind.nu som nevnt i en av trådene, men nei, det virker ikke som om Stetind uten tau er så veldig fornuftig.

[+PTG]

Enkleste vei, normalruta krever klatring.

Se http://www.stetind.nu for mer info.

Fra fortoppen er det flere svært luftige partier + klatring forbi mysosten.

Retur innebærer dessuten rapell.

[ods]

Den er ganske staselig.

[Ragnla]

Du har ikke lyst til å gå på Stetind alene. Hvis du går normalveien, er det et svært luftig parti på vei opp, der du kun har håndtak. Beina prøver du å få til å sitte på sva. Glipper du, er det 1000 m ned før du lander. Ned igjen er det rapell (litt langt å hoppe)!

[anthony_dyer]

Hi,

Although my Norwegian's only basic, I can tell you that going alone on Stetind is something that's not recommended. The hardest section is a rising "hand traverse" that has no foot-holds for your feet. I imagine only the most accomplished rock climbers would be willing to try that section without ropes.

I've got a detailed account of my trip here, with many photos of the route.

http://ccgi.mountaineer.plus.com/norway/jul05/index.shtml

We saw a man trying Stetind alone. He got as far as the start of the hand traverse beneath the Mysosten block. At that point he decided to turn back.

Anthony Dyer

[ods]

Thanks to Tony for an interesting and exciting account and nice pictures. Back in the pioneer times, British mountaineers were very active in Norwegian mountains. ”The tree mountains”, Store Skagastølstind, Romsdalshorn and Stetind were the big challenge. The Briton, W. C. Slingsby, made the first ascent of Skagastølstind in 1876. The Dane, Carl Hall who has more first ascents than anybody else in Norwegian mountains (together with his companion, Mathias Soggemoen), reached the summit of Romsdalshorn in 1881 after seven earlier attempts. He thought he was the first until he discovered a cairn, built of two local fellows more than fifty years earlier ”in the prehistorical time of mountaineering” as Hall expressed it.

Hall was the first who made a serious attempt on Stetind, but was beaten off by Mysosten. The story tells that when he returned from the mountain, he said that if he had the choice of climbing Mysosten or beeing shot, he immediately would shout: Shoot!

Several British climbing teams made attempts on Stetind, among others Slingsby, but they were all beaten. But on one of these attempts, Slingsby’s son, Will, discovered the key to the fortress, a ledge that led forward to the finger traverse beneath Mysosten. But the weather was not good enough to continue.

Several years later the Norwegian mountaineer, Ferdinand Schelderup, visited Slingsby at his home in England . Then Slingsby presented for him a photograph taken by Norman Collie on a cold and nasty day on the Stetind ridge many years ago. This picture made an overwhelming impression on Schelderup, and he decided at once where the holiday that summer should be spent. Together with his climbing companions, C. W. Rubenson and A. Bryn, he gained the ridge beyond Mysosten by the finger traverse and reached the summit of Stetind on 30. July 1910.

Stetind, ”an anvil whereupon the gods can hammer” (P.W. Zapffe, Norwegian philosopher and mountaineer).