Where to climb in south and central Norway

[levak]

Hello!

 

I'm sorry for writing in English, but I have very poor knowledge of Norwegian:)

 

I'm traveling to Norway next month to climb and I'm searching for some nice places to climb. I would like to stay in the lower Norway and would not go higher then Romsdalen. If possible, I would stay below Oslo and Bergen:)

 

I'm looking for places with multi-pitch climbs up to grade 6/6+(max), but I feel safe in 5+

 

So far I've climbed in Nissedal, Romsdalen, Lofoten, Stetind, some sport crags in Bergen...

 

What would you recommend I visit? In my many visits to Norway I've learned that the weather has the last word, so it's nice to have a few options...

 

So far what I have came up with:

- Uskedalen (been there once, looks super promissing, specially with the new guidebook(mine was from 1980 or smthk)

- Setesdal

- Lysefjord(Rogaland)

 

What else is there and what is worth checking out?

 

Thanks, Matej

[OleJ]

Jotunheimen, Innerdalen

[OleJ]

Both which has own guidebooks by NTK (Norsk Tindeklub - http://www.ntk.no/ )

 

These are alpine areas. Innerdalen is further north by the way.

[levak]

Nice ideas:) I don't know how I didn't think of Jotunheimen. Although, last 3 years when I've been to Norway, weather wasn't the best around Jotunheimen. Always raining:)

 

Innerdalen looks nice as well... It's maby a bit further up, but if there is enough to climb then I can just go there and stay there for 14 days:) What I don't want is to drive around all the time to search for routes/places to climb...

 

Will check further. Nice suggestions, thanks.

 

MAtej

[Ida Sollie]

Uskedalen is supernice! 

I haven't been in Setesdal yet, but are planning. Hearing good things.

Have a nice summer!

[levak]

Uskedalen is supernice! 

I haven't been in Setesdal yet, but are planning. Hearing good things.

Have a nice summer!

 

Do you know what kind of climbing is in Setesdal? Slabs mostly, like Nissedal?

 

How bout Uskedalen? 

 

Matej

[OleJ]

Uskedalen differs from Hegefjell in that there is more routes following big structures. You will find cracks and dihedrals (not sure if its spelled right) that go all the way to the top. Generally there is few bolts, whereas in Hegefjell you will find several (easier) routes almost bolted as sport routes. (as well as others, Mot Sola and Hegar could be examples of such). Also some of the walls are higher, and many of the routes is about 14 lengths. In Uskedalen you have everything from 4 to 7+ (or even harder). The neighbouring valley also has some shorter easier routes. It is all in the new guidebook, that I will really recommend looking into. The guidebook is sold in some particiular places (Bergen, and other), contact Bergen-Klatreklubb (http://bergen-klatreklubb.no/) for more information on this. The site also has a list of routes in Uskedalen.

[levak]

This reads exactly like I want to:)

 

Hegefjell is nice to learn to use your feet when climbing:), but I must say I liked Lofoten and Steting more, since routes followed natural paths more. Hegar, Mot Sola, Via Lara are the types of routes I'm searching for... and from your writing it seems like I will be able to find that in Uskedalen. 

 

Lack of bolts doesn't bother me, there were none on Lofoten also and I got used to it:) As long as there is enough places for protection:) 

 

I think I will order the guidebook in the following days and have a look at it...

 

Would love to go to Narvik area, since I really liked the places and long routes, but doing 3500km for 14 days is just too much...

[erbr]

You should consider the area around Stavanger/Sandnes. Multipitch route topos (Turfører) are available here: http://brv.no/default.asp?id=440.

There are excellent routes on grades around 6 on Dirdalsveggen, Heskestad, Gloppedalen, Tau and Heskestad from 4 pitches and more.

You will not find any bolts on these walls (except for a few anchors on Dirdalsveggen). Climbing is steeper than the other area you mention.

[levak]

Uff, this area looks nice too:) And there is a guidebook online, which is also nice:)

 

Will take a look at the guide book. After all, all the places are "quite" close together and I can decide on the way there where to land(probably depends on the weather, as usually:)...

 

Thanks for the ideas, Matej

[Opethist]

Jotunheimen, Innerdalen

Innerdalen +1

[levak]

A little late reply but once again, thanks for all the suggestions...

 

Unfortunately, the weather forced me to go to Orco valley, Italy. It was similar to Lofoten, lots of crack climbing with anything from single pitch to multipitch. You could climb down in the valley or up in the mountains(up to 3500m) and you could choose from 100% bolted routes to trad only... Worth visiting if you are in these areas.

 

Matej