Monte Rosa juli 2008

[jpn]

I midten av juli satte undertegnede, Øyvind, Siv og Inger Elin kursen til Zermatt og Monte Rosa. Planen var å bestige en del 4000 meters topper, deriblant reisens store mål: Dufourspitze på 4634 moh. Planen var å gå normalruten og ca 1900 høydemeter opp til Dufourspitze, fra Monte Rosa Hut. En feilnavigering i løpet av natten gjorde at vi istedet havnet på alpenes nr. 4: Signalkuppe, og vi tok en overnatting på toppen i Margherita Hut på 4554 moh. Hell i uhellet, gjorde at vi nå istedet kunne prøve oss på traversen fra Signalkuppe - Zumsteinspitze - Dufourspitze - Nordend. En travers som er AD gradert fra Zumsteinspitze til Douforspitze. Etter en artig og spennende travers i til dels sterke vindkast, og helt i øvre sjikt for meg, kunne vi nyte nedturen i solen ned til Monte Rosa Hut og Rotenboden. En kjempetur som totalt inneholdt 9 av alpenes topper over 4000 moh.

[coni]

Gratulerer. 9 4000er på en gang er ikke dårlig det!

[jpn]

Takk

Absolutt fornøyd med, selv om det ikke var antallet som gjaldt på turen. Vi var heldige med været, snøforhold, akklimatiseringen og nivå sammensetningen av gruppen som reiste nedover. Alt gikk i grunn etter planen, foruten vår feilnavigering i løpet av natten opp til Dufourspitze, men det gjorde at vi fikk en morsommere og mer utfordrende travers dagen derpå

Området anbefales på det sterkeste til andre som vil prøve seg på spennende og luftige toppturer med høyde.

[K]

Imponerende bilder. Kan du antyde for oss ikke-alpinister hva AD (assez difficile?) egentlig betyr?

[jpn]

Det er sikkert flere her inne på forumet som har erfaring med alpin gradering, og som kan beskrive det med egne ord. Jeg har ikke den erfaringen, men alle rute beskrivelser i bøkene er gradert etter alpine grade. Dette står det skrevet om saken på http://www.summitpost.org/

The Alpine Grade:

Because you can forget the difference between AD, D and TD (at your peril), here is a handy Alpine Grade Reference. These grades can have a "+" or "-" to reference the upper or lower range of the grade.

The Alpine Select guidebook by McLane makes a distinction between the Alpine Grade and the NCCS grade above, it is interesting to read:

[speaking of the NCCS] "...In its original design by statistician Leigh Ortenburger, an attempt was made to encompass the entire scale of the endeavour, but that was usurped by its application to Yosemite climbs where it became strictly a measure of the time required...Alpine Grades, being based on terrain and skill descriptions, and having a dozen or so categories of grade, are unequivocably different from NCCS, in both verbal articulation and the avoidance of any confusion with 'time-required' grades."

and later, a compelling definition of the Alpine Grade:

"Perhaps the best single word that describes the essence of Alpine Grades is 'engagement': it is the shibboleth which distinguishes the degree of challenge, difficulty, and committment that each climb presents. Most climbers are unwilling to attempt climbs above a certain Alpine Grade, whatever its technical difficulty, because the degree of engagement - the influencing forces of intimidation, effort and risk - is beyond their comfort level to accept."

F easy facile

These are often glacier walks, perhaps with some scrambling to reach the summit.

PD not difficult peu difficile

The level of good introductory climbs for novices. There may be a few pitches of mid-5th class climbing (or say, Grade III in UIAA). If it's a snow climb, there will be minor crevasse problems to deal with, or limited sections of very steep terrain.

AD fairly difficult assez difficile

At this level alpine climbs get interesting, that is, there are extended periods of roped climbing or exposed 4th class soloing, often in a remote location. An easy descent can no longer be expected, and the climb may be physically demanding. Many alpine ice climbs belong in this grade, barring the appearance of really frightening bergschrunds or extended mixed terrain.

D difficult difficile

Well stated in Alpine Select, "Climbs at this grade are significant undertakings for experienced climbers." If the climb is of short or medium length, expect a commenserately hard grade for the rock or ice. Longer climbs will have many pitches of serious rock climbing, all of which is under a higher commitment level due to problems of weather an difficulty of retreat. Difficult alpine ice climbs usually fall into this category.

TD very difficult trés difficile

These are hard routes no matter who is judging. Expect rock difficulties of 5.10 or greater, and sustained for multiple pitches. If the technical difficulty is not so great, there will be other factors that make the climb intimidating: poor protection, "points of no return" where up is the only way, notorious weather problems, etc.

ED1/2/3/4 extremely difficult extramement difficile

These are "the most demanding climbs in the world." You need mental tolerance for sustained, high levels of objective hazard, as well as flawless technical ability certainly above the stated crux of the climb. These will be long, stressful undertakings with difficult retreat. Difficult mixed climbing with poor protection, 5.9 rock climbing in extreme cold, aid climbing with dangerous pitches...all under a calving glacier for three days - have fun!

[coni]

Galdhøpiggen fra Juvass: F+

Ringstind normalvegen: PD-

Austabotntind normalruta: PD+

Skagastølstraversen AD

Storen AD eller AD+

D begynner først når det virkelig blir alvor.

TD og ED er bare relevant for ytterst krevende turer. ED er noen ruter på Eiger Nordvegg. I norge kanskje noen storvegger.

Graderingen er forøvrig veldig informativ. Klatregraden sier jo lite om hvor krevende turen er som helhet. I de franske graderingen ingår blant annet:

Teknisk vanskelighetsgrad

Snø og is utfordringer

Lenge

Er ruta utsatt

Stein og issprang moment

Kondisjonskrevende?

Orientering